How the Art Deco Movement Changed the Course of Jewelry Design


Published: updated on – 16:54, Mon – 9 May 22

1: An old European cut diamond and ruby ​​ring Gross weight: 7.490 g Diamond weight: 5.34 cts / 1 pc Ruby weight: 3 cts / 20 pcs Dimension: 13 ring size. 2: An elegant Art Deco bracelet in platinum and diamonds Gross weight: 46.57 g Round diamond weight: approximately 16.00 cts / 252 pieces Diamond baguette weight: approximately 3 cts / 18 pieces Size: 7 in

Hyderabad: Coined during the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, held in Paris in 1925, the term Art Deco refers to the iconic movement that led to a dramatic transformation in women’s fashion at the time. The movement also had a huge impact on jewelry styles and emphasized geometric simplicity to create dramatic pieces.

Rendered in bold combinations of gemstones such as ruby, jade, sapphire, emerald, and lapis lazuli, Art Deco jewelry was carved with Persian floral arabesque designs. Inspired by different cultures around the world, including India and China, the Art Deco movement advocated the use of unconventional materials, techniques and combinations.

Using platinum and lacquer as common materials, the creation of Art Deco jewelry also involved techniques of invisible setting and gem-cutting. The movement has also resulted in pearl jewelry becoming the epitome of chic fashion. Unprecedented combinations such as lapis lazuli with gold and carnelian with turquoise were also incorporated into the designs.

The Art Deco movement continues its momentum thanks to several strongly influenced jewelry brands. The greatest jewelry houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Fouquet, Raymond Templier created a myriad of individual pieces as well as adornments in the Art Deco style. Some of these very popular creations came in the form of tassel necklaces, detailed dangling earrings, beads, brooches and bracelets, among others. The movement also saw the production of other exotic and more refined products for everyday use, such as lacquered silver boxes, smoking accessories or beauty cases.

The Art Deco movement was also spearheaded by a host of international celebrities who were in love with the class, chic and comfort of jewelry. The “modern style”, as it was also called, was adopted by Daisy Fellowes, Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel, the legendary French fashion icon. Famous for her timeless designs, Chanel said “a woman needs strings and strings of pearls.”

Decades later, the Art Deco style of jewelry continues to inspire different brands. Vintage Art Deco pieces from the time of its prominence continue to be highly sought after by seasonal jewelry collectors.

Jay Sagar
Jewelery specialist
auction house


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